Mar 25, 2015

Off The Topic Review* MARIMEKKO FALL WINTER 2015 READY-TO-WEAR IN TOKYO FASHION WEEK





This is totally off the topic of my blog.

I am still living in Finland. So after seeing the latest fashion collection by the Finnish national brand MARIMEKKO, I can't help thinking about it. 

Catering to the potential Asian market, The company strategically picked Tokyo Fashion Week to presented its Fall Winter 2015 ready-to-wear, which is the newly appointed creative director Anne Teurnell's debut collection. 

At first, I was very amazed by the styling. The models looked happy, strong and effortless. The casting includes Finnish model Kirsi Pyrhonen and my favourite Japanese top model Chiharu Okunugi. 



This is the first time I looked at Marimekko’s clothes without feeling cheap, old or “art school parade". The silhouettes are simple, clean and contemporary: wide sleeves, drop shoulders, the wide leg leather pants. The materials look much more luxe and more diverse than before. Finally Marimekko is trying to deliver something more than just a full rack of Mari's box-fitting-one-piece-printed-cotton-dresses. The whole collection is absolutely much more relevant. It fits lots of modern women. This would be “the most wanted" Marimekko fashion collection ever.

But, the whole collection is screaming Céline: the shoes, the sihuoette, the styling, the show setting at the Hibiya Kadan Koen store, even the marketing images are so similar to Celine. Before I can use the word “quirky” to describe a Marimekko look. But this time it is just “Déjà vu”. There is not so much creativity.

Meanwhile, I don't know if this is a smart move for a house known for its prints and pattern. I am seeing the old patterns, the stripes, the unikko motif AGAIN! Yes, yes, you have to show some respect to the house code. 

Bags, the real cash cows. Marimekko's iconic canvas messenger bag used to be a part of Finns' national daily wear uniforms. ( they are still selling, who are buying those nowadays? ) The new collection got some top quality leather bags ( look like made in super soft napa leather). They come in cute candy colors and black. But again, the style is very minimal and I do not like the Alexander Wang's favourite metal shoulder straps.  






Anne Teurnell did bring a younger vibe to the house. Despite the fact that she used to work for "& other stories". This collection is more like a COS store X Marimekko collaboration. Well, it is definitely much better than the H&M X Marimekko attempt. I believe a famous design house like Marimekko should be more creative in order to convey the company’s culture and point of views. A show collection should engage its customers into a fantasy. After all, Minimalism is not what Marimekko about.

Marimekko is doing well domestically (I guess). Without looking at any numbers, I guess the house realized that the brand's taste is not relevant anymore, especially for the younger generation. The materials are always conventional. But the price is not that affordable. 

Nowadays, fashion industry is shaped by internet and fast-fashion retailers. Marimekko’s brand value is not as competitive as it used to be, certainly not at its price point. The company plans to open more stores in China. It is interesting to see where the house is heading. And I am very curious about the prices of this new collection. 


Again, seeing Marimekko’s fall winter 2015 collection, brings back the unsolved question: “why the fashion world is getting increasingly homogenous ?”



Marimekko fall winter 2015 ready-to-wear
(pics from Style.com and fashionsnap.com)





















Céline previous collections
( images from style.com)







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